Category: lovely things

Clarence in Paris: Rosa Bonheur

Rosa Bonheur

in Parc des Buttes Chaumont

2, allée de la Cascade
75019 Paris

Métro: Botzaris (Ligne 7 Bis)

So I’m not the first self-loathing hipster to wax poetic about Rosa Bonheur, and I certainly won’t be the last. The concept is just so stellar.  It starts with one gorgeous, off the beaten path, Parisian park. Buttes Chaumont is surely my favorite public garden in Paris. It seriously makes me feel like I’m in Mirbeau’s torture garden minus all the gore (bonus points if you get that reference, and let’s be friends). This might have something to do with the fact that B erroneously told me that this was a major site for public executions in the eighteenth century (it wasn’t).  While not nearly as tightly manicured as the Jardin du Luxembourg or the Jardin des Plantes (my other favorite places to go on a sunny day), Buttes Chaumont makes up for it with traditionally styled English and Chinese gardens. The space began as a limestone and gypsum quarry, leaving the space full of miniature mountains and cliffs that you can climb up to ex(e/o)rcise your inner mountaineer. The park also has a large lake that contains both a grotto with an enclosed 65-foot high waterfall and an island accessible by a 200-foot long suspension bridge (aptly nicknamed the “suicide bridge”). The island itself is a verdant, craggy peak, atop which sits the belvedere of Sybil. Wikipedia informs me that the belvedere was added to the park in 1869 and is a Corinthian-style monument, modeled after the ancient Roman temple of Sybil in Tivoli, Italy. I’ll inform you that it is one of my favorite views in Paris.

Here’s an old timey map of the park:

See that little building called “Pavilion du Chemin de Fer”?  Well, since it was a railway outpost had many culinary incarnations, including this one from the nineteenth century:

The people at Rosa Bonheur renovated this amazing historic building to be a sort of bobo wonderland, complete with two bars with cheap rosé, yummy snacks, lots of outdoor seating, great music, and a view of the sunset.  Here’s the outside in 2010:

And the inside:

The food is built around the wonderfully simple concept that you can eat everything accompanied by a brown paper bag of freshly sliced baguette.  On a recent visit, our spread looked like this:

Clockwise from the top, that’s an aged comté, slices of spicy chorizo, black olive and fig tapenade, dry sausage, and a lovely jar of duck rillettes.  At a couple of euros for each component with a big bag of bread, you can put together quite a picnic.  Pair that with some cold beers or a bottle of rosé and you’ve got yourself a nice lazy afternoon.

The logistics are kind of heavy on this place.  First of all, the park itself is on the bizarre line 7 bis, a one-way, miniature subway line complete with a short train and a maddeningly slow schedule.  B refuses to even take it and insists on walking from Jourdain on line 11.  I’d recommend instead that you suck it up, take the 7 bis, and get off at Bozartis.  As you exit the métro, the park will be on your right hand side.  Walk up about a block to the entrance, then veer left on the path about another block to Rosa.  You can obviously enter the park anywhere, but it can sometimes be quite a hike to get to Rosa if you start at the bottom of the hill.  You can think of it as earning those rillettes.

My favorite time to go to Rosa is in the afternoon, as it is bar none one of the best places to laze away with friends on a sunny day.  The park gates close at 7 p.m. and Rosa becomes kind of a scene, with hoards of Chuck Taylor and tortoiseshell glasses clad hipsters waiting at the gates to be slowly let in by an unamused park security guard.  So if you want to go there for the evening, just show up at six so that you can get in to the park without a wait.  Try and snag one of the tables to your right as you enter the restaurant if you want a killer view of the sunset and the envy of the coolest kids in Paris.

Details:  I think I’ve covered it, though Rosa also has a very comprehensive website, from which I lifted both the map and the old photo of the pavilion.  Sometimes their hours get funky with the change of the seasons or private events, so it’s worth visiting their website or Facebook page if you are planning a visit.  On another note, it’s a very friendly place for kids and dogs, both of which run around in joyous abundance.

Leavings

So my mom hates the new template, but I rather like it. It’s called Bueno, which is why I investigated it in the first place. Is there are more perfectly delightful word to say in any language than “bueno”? Doubtful. Also, the second best* candy bar in the world is surely a Kinder Bueno bar. I remember having an argument with someone in college about whether or not it would be called a Bueno bar in France or Germany. On the off chance that my college friend reads this blog, I’ll settle the score now: Yes, they are called Bueno bars, no matter where you buy them. And they are always delicious.

But I guess there is a real formatting problem happening with my mom’s browser (Firefox on a PC, no wonder). I worry that this is because she doesn’t understand how to zoom out in the view box, not because there is anything actually wrong with the site (which looks terrific, if loud, on my Safari-running Mac).  But what say ye, other readers? Is the blarg horrifyingly ugly to look at now? I’m not much for democracy, but if you will be much less likely to come here with this new template, speak now! I can change it back! But I felt like a change and this one seems oh so Bueno!

In other news, I’m in love with my students in this rapturous way that I never expected to be totally wild about teenagers. They never fail to say things that absolutely kill me, I mean, stop me dead in my tracks, I JUST DIED, KILL ME.

I’ve got this little anarcho-punk in my Public Speaking class who gleefully talked about how she hopes civil unrest in Greece will result in the people burning down the banks and seizing control of the government. She quoted Fanon in my classroom the other day, and not because I’ve forced her to read it (I only make my American students do that). Her idealism spouts, of course, from the warm, comfortable nest of the white, Western, and upwardly-mobile upper middle class (which, let’s face it, is waaay more terrifyingly sometimes than the complacently upper class). But she was so earnest, so absolutely, unbelievably convinced that the revolution is coming, that it actually broke my heart that one day she will surely be a compromise-formation liberal like myself who watches John Stewart and shudderingly votes for whomever the equivalent of Barak Obama will be in France. Someday she’ll be talking about “building social programs” and “sustained reform,” and her revolution will seem but a naïve oversimiplification. But today, in all her youthful vigor, I was completely in love with her. I defended her against her already-jaded classmates. I even helped her find difficult phrases in her English pocketbook, phrases like “high capitalism” and “prison-industrial complex.”

In fact, lately I’ve sustained a seriously intense fantasy about becoming a high school English teacher, basically so I can just hang out with teenagers and tell them about books and hear what they think about things ALL DAY LONG, EVERY DAY.  This isn’t to say that it would be ridiculous for me to be a high school English teacher, despite the fact that I’ve now accrued quite a few (cough) more years of graduate school than such an endeavor would really require.  But man, oh man, do I  dream about it!  In my fantasy, I’m the cool teacher with the chunky jewelry and the cluttered classroom of taxidermied animals and framed posters of lesser-known modernists, the one who makes them read the best books and changes their mind about everything important and encourages a few of them to go on and pursue egregious graduate degrees that involve reading until your eyes bleed.  I had a few of those kinds of teachers, and man oh man, were they great.  I suspect more than a few of them were terminally ABD as well.  Just saying.

Seems like I’m doing a lot of “just saying” lately.

Finally, have you been watching the La Toquéra videos on the Le Fooding website? It’s how I’ve been spending most of my time. Translating as “camera hat,” the videos showcase awesome French chefs from Le Fooding-endorsed restaurants as they put together a delicious snack. The Sonia Ezgulian video finally pushed me over the fence with the French convention of eating raw radishes with salted butter. Now I don’t know what I’ve been doing all these years. She mixes her butter with seaweed flakes and sesame, but I’ve been doing the same procedure with a touch of mustard and fresh chives. Bueno. Caveat emptor: if you are having trouble justifying a pure-butter aperitif snack, don’t bother trying this with some hydrogenated soybean oil butter substitute. I’m not judging you –it’s only in France that I use real butter this liberally (read: flagrantly). My fridge in the States is usually filled with Earth Balance Light. But this is kind of a go-big-or-go-home** kind of recipe.  A raw radish with a smear of Earth Balance just sounds gross.

* Snickers are the best candy bar in the world.  Obviously.

** I taught the kiddies “go big or go home” the other day.  I also taught them “make it rain.”  You’re totally welcome, France.

La Chasse, Part Deux: Victoire!

I almost forgot to mention this:

After two days and anywhere between ten and fifteen miles of dogged searching, B emerged from the forests of Fontainebleau a sunburnt and a triumphant hunter. He is also a very good cook:

That’s a morel and white asparagus quiche, people. He wants to make sure I tell you that he made the crust from scratch. I never do that, even though I often lie and say I do.

In addition to being delicious, I’m happy that this means that I don’t have to slog around in the woods, peering under every rotten tree stump. For a while at least.

Everywhere tints childrening, innocent spontaneous, true.

So today is two important things. The first is Mother’s Day. I’m a bit ambivalent about the Mother’s Day thing. In general, I loathe holidays that are the product of American commercialism and it seems to me that marketers have been especially insidious about making this particular day a guilt-ridden festival of six dollar greeting cards and shitty supermarket bouquets. They don’t do “Mother’s Day” in France, and none of the mothers I’ve met here seem particularly bothered by it.

That said, I have a pretty terrific mother. The best mother, you might say (others have, besides me, that is). I have a mother that other people envy. She’s smart and witty and some of the best company that you’ll ever keep. She gives excellent, seasoned advice without being invasive or judgmental. She’s an incredibly savvy businesswoman who somehow build a successful accounting firm from the ground up while always managing be there when her kid got home from school. She bought me big stacks of books for every holiday and is the reason that I do what I do for a living. She’s a great cook, a better hostess, and always cheats at board games. She’s quick to kick her shoes off if there is sand to be walked in or water to be waded in. She’s the best, really, and I’d be a shuddering pile of mud if it wasn’t for her. So happy mother’s day, Mom. If anybody deserves their own Hallmark holiday, it’s you.

Secondly, it’s my best friend MT’s birthday today. I met her my sophomore year of college when we were randomly assigned to live together after we had both ditched our disastrous freshman year roommates. I didn’t know if we would get along at first – MT is almost inhumanly beautiful and pulled together and I was terribly intimidated by her when I met her. But she proved herself immediately to be as equally smart and funny and silly as she is gorgeous and we’ve been friends ever since.

What kind of friend is she? Well, she’s the first person I want to talk to when something goes wrong or right in my life and I never feel bad about calling her when I’m crying hysterically with snot running down my face. She’s a great listener and while she is able to give well-tempered, level-headed advice, she also knows exactly when I just want somebody to be on my side, no matter how ridiculous my side might be at that particular moment. Last year, I had bizarre experience that consolidated all my love for MT. A woman I barely knew threatened to beat me up out of the blue (there was a guy involved, and a lot of alcohol, surprise, surprise). Chicken-shit dork that I am, I didn’t even know how to handle the situation, except to sputter something like “We’re in a PhD program!  I didn’t even think physical fighting was on the table!” as I scampered away in fear. About a week later I was at a party with MT. Another friend came over to talk with us and to let me know that it was possible that the threatening woman might show up later that evening. My other friend asked if it would be a problem if the threatening woman showed up. I started to hem and haw, but MT immediately snapped to attention. “Uh, yes, there’s going to be a BIG fucking problem if she shows up!” MT announced as she put her arm around me protectively. I suddenly realized that MT wouldn’t even hesitate to get in a fight for me, or at least make a lot of noise in that general direction. I tell this story not because I want you thinking that my best friend is anything short of a class act (she isn’t, and she’ll probably hate me for recounting this). I tell you this because I realized that night that she’s got my back in a way that I didn’t even know that my back could be gotten, and every time I think about how protective she was of me I get kind of teary and emotional. It’s nice to have a friend that makes you feel like you always have somebody on your team. It makes you feel like you can take on anything. I’d tell you to go get one of those friends for yourself, but I know firsthand how hard they are to find.

So happy birthday, chickadee.  You’re my ever after favorite.  While I’m a total wimp when it comes to my own confrontations, I’d totally take out anybody who ever messed with you.

Final news!  It appears that despite the suspicions I’ve aired here that I’m a pretty lousy English teacher, the university where I teach in Paris has nevertheless renewed my contract for another year. This means I will be in France through the summer of 2011, and I couldn’t be happier. I can’t believe I have another year to keep badgering you with an inappropriate level of information about my diet! Just think how many anachronistic idioms I’ll be able to teach the youth of France in another two semesters!

Now all you punks that promised that you were coming to visit might actually have time to do so.  Just saying.

where our heads lived and were

I’ve been in a spring break haze of long sunny days in the park followed by Aperol spritzers (one part Aperol, two parts Prosecco or other dry sparkling wine, a splash of soda or citrus juice, and a slice of lemon over ice).  Delicious. I finally managed to locate a bottle of Aperol in Paris. La Grande Epicerie saves the day, again. You can do the same thing with Campari if you’re in a place where Aperol isn’t readily available and you’re not a nutjob that will hunt to the death for the sake of a cocktail. But man, Aperol is pretty amazing and worth the extra legwork. My friends BC and J also snagged themselves a bottle at La Grande Epicerie and lugged it to Buttes Chaumont with a bottle of sparkling limonade as a mixer.

I find it good to have friends with similar interests to mine.

Also, I’ve discovered that in Italy, there’s apparently an Aperol girl!  What I lack in legs for this gig, I think I more than make up for in enthusiasm:

* * *

Some other lovely things as of late:

Cherry blossoms in front of Notre Dame.

Poppies in the Jardin des Plantes.

Apple blossoms in the Jardin du Luxembourg.

Macarons from Ladurée (clockwise that’s rose, pistachio, lemon, blackberry violet, lily of the valley (!), and lemon).

I don’t like sharing my lemon macaron, obvi.

My new windowbox full of yummy herbs (from the top, that’s rosemary, Moroccan mint, basil, Italian parsley, and chives).

* * *

Finally, early on in this blarg experiment, I made plea to the universe when confronted with some annoying home improvement problems.  I believe it went something like this:

“…if the universe wanted to send me a guy capable of doing anything other than telling me how capable he is, I wouldn’t exactly spit in its face.  Did you hear that Universe? I’d literally trade all the hyper-verbose, hyper-articulate guys I’ve dated in the past five years for one soft-spoken handyman.”

Apparently somebody in my life took this as an incitement.  About a month ago B started quietly fixing things in my house. Well, it wasn’t always quiet, in fact, some times there was some rather loud pounding. But now all my chairs have four stable legs, I don’t have to cook in the dark, and a particularly gnarly cabinet hinge problem has been resolved. B only had to ride the métro with a hack saw once or twice. I figure that all of this manly manliness requires at least a restitutive shout-out, so thanks Universe, and thanks B. I didn’t know that it was possible to be so hyper-verbose, hyper-articulate and wield a mallet quite so well.