Booze or lose: La Belle Hortense

La Belle Hortense

31 rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris

Métro:  Hôtel de Ville, St. Paul

One of my oldest friends is spending a month in Paris and oh boy, am I excited to have him here. I haven’t seen A in years because he spends most of his time in war zones working with Médecins Sans Frontières. A million years ago, he and I worked together at an art gallery during a time in our lives when we were both floating (and occasionally flailing) professionally. I was trying to apply to graduate school without the faintest idea about how one would go about doing such a thing. He was trying to figure out what his calling was, cursed as he is by a variety of talents and aptitudes (in addition to being a logistical savant, he is also a talented artist and writer).  What that we should all have such problems, yes? He ended up taking the humanitarian route and I don’t want to brag too hard on the guy but let’s just say that he’s kind of a big deal now. He’s also annoyingly modest about his extremely difficult, self-sacrificing, and important work. I’m really proud to know him. Wandering around my neighborhood, we had a couple of shared moments of amazement that somehow we have gone from being the people we were back then to the people we are now, meeting up in Paris.  More importantly, after not seeing each other for nearly five years, we immediately fell back into the same banter that we had when we were dewy and just-hatched. Sitting at a bar last night, he said something funny and I felt an overwhelming urge to give him a noogie (I didn’t, but it was hard to curb the impulse). When we went to my bank so I could get some cash, I joked about how I disappointed was that these awful bums that always harass me at my ATM weren’t on duty last night. As I was telling him about how these guys had drunkenly followed me to my laundromat one day and cornered me, A looked defensive and angry, like he would happily punch someone out for giving me a hard time. It made me feel the way I suspect people with older brothers feel all the time. You lucky people with older brothers. Do you just strut around all day in the warm glow of your older brother’s care and protection? No? You should.

We went to this darling bar that I want to tell you about. Maybe I’ll inaugurate a new series of bar reviews today. Yes, it is definitely about time. That’s right, in addition to eating things and going to movies, I also drink a lot! Booze or lose! It rhymes! I suspect that A’s presence in Paris will be especially fruitful for such an endeavor. He arrived with a list of Paris bars that he wanted to try, and, self-sacrificing friend that I am, I begrudgingly agreed to help him in his quest. I’m a giver, really. He said he wouldn’t even mind if I blogged about it. That’s the golden ticket as far as I’m concerned.

Last night I took him to this place that M introduced me to, La Belle Hortense. It’s a wine bar and bookshop in the Marais and man is it cute. It’s got a perfect Parisian zinc bar, dark-wood walls lined with beautiful books, and a back room with seating and an art gallery. In addition to having a large list of set wines, they also have a weekly rotating list of interesting seasonal or small-batch wines that are listed on a chalkboard in the front. Going to La Belle Hortense has been a nice way of exploring some wines that I wouldn’t try otherwise (they did a month of killer rosés when I first arrived in Paris). La Belle Hortense also keeps a steady schedule of author visits, lectures, and readings, available on their website. The crowd is a well-heeled, thirty- to forty-something bunch.

La Belle Hortense is one of the cutest places run by a single corporate conglomerate, Caféine, owned by one Xavier Denamur. Most of the other restaurants and bars on the same block of rue Vieille du Temple as La Belle Hortense are also owned by Caféine, including Les philosophes, Le petit fer à cheval, L’étoile manquante, and La chaise au plafond. Coming from Orange County, the land of homogeneous franchises and chains, I was a little disappointed to discover that what appeared to be a heterogeneous block of fetching restaurants and bars in Paris is actually a well-oiled corporate machine. That said, these places are really well done. Beyond the fact that you get to watch the beautiful bartender from La Belle Hortense scamper across the street to Le petit fer à cheval to pick up your charcuterie plate should you order one at her bar, there is little to suggest that these restaurants are affiliated. While their menus are basically same and they all have overproduced and overindulgently designed bathrooms, they each have a very different overall vibe. La Belle Hortense is certainly my favorite, but the restaurants are certainly worth a visit.

Caféine’s website if you want to poke around, complete with virtual bathroom tours (!):

http://www.cafeine.com/

Better yet, here is the website for Médecins Sans Frontières should you want to donate or read about the organization’s efforts around the world:

http://www.msf.org/

He’s pretty easy on the eyes too

One of the most consistently delightful people I know also happens to have a consistently delightful blog. He recently linked here, so if you have arrived here via Loquats and Milk, welcome to my dozen-day old world. I’ve been trying to think of a catch phrase for your visit and am coming up a bit short. “Maybe not Loquats, but LOQUACIOUS!” doesn’t really have the ring to it that I’m looking for. If you arrived here in another manner (coersion, likely), please check out Loquats and Milk (accessible on the sidebar, apparently hyperlinks are outside of my skill set). This guy throws excellent parties, has impeccable politics, and is hands-down the best person ever to watch early Sesame Street videos with at three o’clock in the morning when you are a couple of bottles of wine deep. Most importantly, he agrees with me that punching someone in the face is an excellent rhetorical device. He’s got a great knack for writing about Southern California in all of its strangeness and I suspect you’ll really enjoy his blog. Cheers.

Or we could just take this outside

So we were sitting at Han Lim tonight filling ourselves with spicy goodness and I found myself mildly bummed out that we hadn’t tried a new restaurant, not because I don’t like Han Lim, but because I’ve already blogged about it. I was the one that suggested we get Korean food in the first place and shot down another option, making my disappointment especially absurd. And then it became apparent that nobody really wanted to see Eric Rohmer’s Le Beau Mariage at La Filmothèque du Quartier Latin after dinner. M was tired. B asked what the movie was about and I said “I don’t know, French people coupling or something,” and he made a nauseous face. I was bummed about that too, not because I even really wanted to see the movie, but because I haven’t blogged about La Filmothèque yet and wanted to take some photos. Then I realized that I was already writing my blog entry in my head and barely making proper conversation with the two people daft enough to hang out with me on a regular basis. The little conversation I was making was like “bloggity blog blog blog and did I mention my blarg…” And suddenly I thought, whoa Nelly, slow this train down.  I’m sorry, B and M, that I’ve been bad live company this week. As my mother said in the comment section, I am like a tick, once I get hold of something, I will not release. A charming personality trait if there ever was one. You two deserve a better dinner companion.

I was also consumed with how I would respond to an anonymous interloper who tried to post a nasty comment about my entry about Accattone, something about how state funding for small, independent movie theatres that show Pasolini films is symptomatic of everything that is wrong with France. There was also something there about my taste in movies. I was flabbergasted that someone I don’t know could even find this blog. What, were they Googling “something nice about Paris” just so they could shit on it? Five bucks says angry anonymous reader is an expat about two months of bureaucratic hell into his stay in France and he has been alternately begging, swearing, and crying on the phone with France Telecom all day trying to figure out how to get his internet set up and he is now ready to burn the whole country to the ground. Or maybe he moved into a recently renovated apartment and he hasn’t had hot water for two months and he has just taken the coldest shower of his entire life, like so cold that his goosebumps are purple and have tiny goosebumps of their very own, but the contractor has mysteriously disappeared into his Eastern European homeland and just won’t call our angry reader back, even though he has left thirteen messages and offered sexual favors in exchange for help with his boiler. Believe me, angry reader, I know what you are going through. I’m sure you’ve reached the point where you can’t imagine eating another crêpe ever again. But this will pass. Eventually you will have hot water, internet, and a nice kebab place to break up the crêpe doldrums, and this whole phase will seem like a bad dream. But you can’t go posting nasty things on somebody else’s website just because you are having a tough time. Get your own blog! They’re free! I’ll link to you on my sidebar!

I wanted to refute him more articulately, however, so I started researching the French laws that undergird the funding of such enterprises as Accattone and La Filmothèque, both of which are what is formally known as a Cinéma Art et Essai. As a Cinéma Art et Essai, programming must conform to general criteria to qualify for state funding, determined by a national commission composed of people from governmental agencies of finance, culture, and youth, as well as theatre owners, film producers, distributors, directors, and critics. The guidelines that they lay down for programming decisions are laughably broad, from “depicting a way of life not readily witnessed in France” to “potentially enhanced viewing on the big screen.” I can’t think of too many movies that aren’t better viewed on a big screen. In that regard, one might even be able to make a case for The Fast and the Furious as an art film. But these guidelines should be broad, because they allow for independent theatres to approach their programming as a creative act, one that stages a conversation between films from many different genres and eras, not just the rapid-fire commercial schedule that theatres are forced to keep in the United States to keep their heads above water financially. Look, I’m not going to pretend to be an expert on this, nor am I going to argue that the French system is perfect (knowing French bureaucracy, it isn’t). But the point is that many of these cinémas would be in the red without state intervention. In funding these spaces, a variety of French entities, both public and private, are saying that both sensitive film curatorship as well as public access to a diverse range of cinematographic forms are a cultural priority.

I think that we could take a serious cue from that in the United States, especially on a medium that is perhaps most our most definitive and impressive cultural production. I don’t want to turn this into a nationalist argument, but it’s a sad state of affairs that in Paris one can readily watch classic American films that are unavailable in most communities, hell, even most large cities in the United States. It is a truly American oddity that so much money is spent on the production of movies with little to no funding to make the history and avant-garde of that medium available to the public. And, angry reader, should you want to chastise me about the economy and all of things on which money might be better spent besides art and culture and cupcakes, I want to remind you that Avatar has already made like a hundred gagillion dollars. I won’t even argue that we need to devote public funds to such an endeavor. Frankly, I’m rather sick of watching Hollywood movies that are little more than a pastiched homage to niche film genres and listening to their directors wax poetic about how they are scholars of underappreciated and underviewed cinemas (we all know who I’m talking about). I wish that they would put their money, or at least a small percentage of their hundred gagillion dollars, where their mouths are, rather than merely funneling it into another lurching spectacle destined to have no more mark on cinema history than in the sheer vertigo induced by its bottom line.

And finally, angry reader, stop fighting it and just go ahead and take yourself to Sunday night Salò.  Trust me, you’ll feel better in the morning.

Teenagers

I was reading the New York Times yesterday and there was this piece in the Style section about the growing market of deodorants and body sprays for preteen boys.  I groaned when I saw it.  I’m sure I’m not the only one who has been rather disgusted by the recent spate of ads for Axe body spray.  I also spend my working days with the seventeen to twenty-two set, and while they aren’t quite as bad as the high schoolers that I’ve taught in the past, I will say that the sheer density of the Old Spice Red Zone is enough to make anybody wheeze.  Actually, Old Spice Red Zone, along with Aqua di Gio, instantly evokes memories of making out in the back of my first serious boyfriend’s silver Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder.  Let’s just say that it was a pretty rad car for my high school and that it had a remarkably small backseat.  At any rate, the piece in the Times is actually pretty great in that it manages to encapsulate the bizarre combination of total brazenness and utter insecurity that teenagers possess. While I winced at the description of boys spraying on layers of musk in lieu of showering, I was really touched when I read the comment of young man explaining body spray to a teacher who had confiscated his can: “I have to have it, Ms. G., because I don’t have the money to dress the right way. This is all I can afford.”  That killed me.

It got me to thinking about these summers I spent in the last few years teaching SAT prep for a private company in Orange County that largely serviced the Korean community.  The whole operation was rather shady, run out of non-descript shopping centers with lots of under-the-table cash payments.  But the money was good, the prep was minimal, and my student’s mothers often sent me jars of kimchi, so I did it to pay the rent.  The kids were quite delightful – sharp and ambitious if vaguely resentful of the bummer of a summer that their parents had signed them up for.  While they came from all different high schools, within a week they had already effectively cliqued and hierarchized themselves and it was evident even to the teachers who the cool kids were, who the weird kids were, who the overachievers were, etc.  The shopping center in which I taught had a number of fast-food restaurants and coffee places where everyone would eat and hang out before class and during lunch.  I enjoyed spying on my students from my table at Starbucks, watching crushes develop and dates get set, watching gossip and fights transpire, and above all watching them scheme about how to ditch class without getting caught.  Oh, how opaque they thought they were being and how transparent they were.

The thing that really broke my heart, though, was the few kids that never quite fit in to the busy little social network that formed around summer SAT camp.  I came to think of them as the “alone” kids, the ones who brought their lunch and ate alone, whose eyes grazed the classroom uncomfortably, looking for the most inconspicuous place to sit, the ones who waited for their parents to pick them up apart from the raucous groups, alone.  I know how they must have felt.  There is something about being alone when you are that age that is so devastating.  It feels not only that you are alone, but that you are alone because the entire universe has rejected you.  I wish that I could say that everybody who spends a lot of time alone growing up ends up surrounded by friends as they get older.  I wish that I could have taken every single one of those kids aside and said, “Hey, listen, I know it sucks now, but college is going to be amazing!  Your twenties are going to be amazing!  Just hang in there, you just haven’t found your crowd yet!”  But maybe that isn’t the case for everyone.  Maybe some people just end up spending a lot of time alone in their lives, and while high school is especially painful as far as that goes, there isn’t necessarily some brilliant social metamorphosis just around the corner.

I do wish, though, that I could have told them the one thing that I am certain of, namely that the being alone part gets easier.  I don’t know exactly when it happened for me, but I do know that one day I stopped feeling so excruciatingly visible when I was alone.  It felt okay to be alone, comfortable even.  At some point it even became a pleasure.  The girl I once was, cowering in the most inconspicuous place possible, is now a person that relishes going to restaurants and movies by myself.  I’ve gotten good at it, this being alone, and I think I can reasonably hope that the same will happen for those kids.  I think I can also reasonably hope that they will eventually lay off the body spray.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/01/31/fashion/31smell.html?ref=fashion

Clarence in Paris: Le Pick-Clops

Le Pick-Clops

16 rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris

Metro: Hôtel de Ville

One of my earliest memories is of helping my mom make meatloaf.  As any good meatloaf chef will tell you, it’s best to mix the ingredients together with one’s hands so that everything doesn’t get too overworked.  I was always the designated hand-mixer.  I loved doing it, not just because the feeling of cold raw meat between my fingers was pretty divine.  I loved it because when she wasn’t looking, I could totally sneak a clump of raw beef, egg yolks, and onion to eat.  This memory suggests that Clarence has been around for a long time, the dirty little bastard.

Fast forward to the present day and I find myself in the dreamy position of living in a culture that actually sanctions eating that sacred combination of raw filet, shallots or onions, egg yolks, and capers. Oh, yeah, throw in some mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Can I tell you how much I love steak tartare for a moment? I love it more than almost anything. I love how it looks. I love its name – supposedly to commemorate the Tartars, fierce warriors who wouldn’t stop riding to build a fire to cook and instead ate their meat raw. My boyfriend Wikipedia tells me that a variation on this story is that the Tartars kept their meat under their horses’ saddles so that it would be tenderized by their riding. My boyfriend also tells me that steak tartare used to be called steak à l’Americaine, which cracks me up because most Americans would shudder at the idea of eating a pile of raw beef. But serve it with a salad and some fries and you’ve got standard fare at any Parisian bistro.

I had a pretty killer steak tartare last night at one of my favorite places in the Marais, Le Pick-Clops.  This place has such an excellent vibe.  Everybody is so nice.  The waitstaff is nice.  The bartenders are nice.  The patrons are nice to each other (and nice-looking). It’s nice in the morning for brunch, nice in the afternoon for a coffee and some grading, and nice in the evening for a rum punch and dinner.  It also seems to always attract one real character.  Last night it was an adorable older woman who kept on her full-length mink coat and red hat and didn’t budge from her fizzy water for the two hours we sat there.  I took a picture of her for you while pretending to take a picture of my friend B.

The one drawback is that Le Pick-Clops is loud, but not like The Yardhouse on a Friday night in Newport Beach is loud (that reference is for YOU Orange County!).  The soundtrack is amusingly questionable.  During the first afternoon I spent at Le Pick-Clops, I listened to the entirety of Nirvana’s Nevermind followed by an indeterminate Eminem album.  But most of the time it is a standard hipster mix that gets progressively more electronic as the night progresses.  B was wincing slightly by the end of our meal, I was fist-pumping.  Different strokes.

The décor is totally charming, kind of a dressed-up 1950s style diner with multicolored Naugahyde chairs, Formica tables, Coca-Cola kitsch, lots of mirrors, and turquoise paint.  My favorite part is the ever-flattering pink, orange, and gold neon that provides the majority of the lighting (also the reason why I adore the bar at Le Palais de Tokyo).  I look excellent in neon (and so will you).  The food at Le Pick-Clops is really satisfying and the drinks are a bit more creative than what you see elsewhere in Paris, which not really a town for cocktails.  While the steak tartare is sublime, if you are feeling a little less bloodthirsty, try L’Inca salad, comprised of mixed greens, lentils, quinoa, and avocado (the latter two things are pretty rare on the salad front around here).

Final note for French language dorks:  We Anglophones puzzled about the name for a while, but I asked the bartender tonight and he explained that it means a person who bums cigarettes.  How excellent to have a such a word.

Details: Open seven days a week.  Conviviality mandatory.